Red Light Therapy: The Science Behind the Glow

Why the red light therapy trend might actually be worth the hype— according to dermatologists and users...

This article is intended to be informational and should not be taken as medical advice, you are encouraged to do your own research. Any photo can be clicked on to view the research, study, or dermatology office to which the photos belong. In addition, this article does contain affiliate links from which the author may make a commission.

BY JENNY SMITH MATTFELDT Published November 6, 2024

If you haven’t heard of red light therapy for skincare, it might sound a little counterintuitive. After all, we've been hearing for decades how bad tanning beds are for our skin so shouldn't we hesitate to strap a red light mask to our faces? This trend has gained serious traction but does red light therapy actually live up to the hype, or is it gaining popularity thanks to celebrity endorsements like Gwyneth Paltrow and Kim Kardashian? Dermatologists have shared mixed opinions yet many users, including myself, have found it beneficial— especially for calming inflammation resulting from cystic acne. Like with any skincare tool, consistency is key, they need to be used regularly for a period of time before you can decide if the results are worth it. Let’s dive into what science and experience have to say about at-home red light therapy.

FROM THE SCIENTIFIC STANDPOINT

Red light therapy works by using specific red and near-infrared light wavelengths that are absorbed by our cells, particularly in the mitochondria (anybody else having "powerhouse of the cell" flashbacks?) This light absorption helps stimulate the release of nitric oxide, a molecule that improves blood flow and brings more oxygen to tissues. As a result, the body’s natural repair processes kick into gear, even activating stem cells to boost tissue repair and healing. This can lead to reduced inflammation, which is why red light therapy is often beneficial for skin conditions like psoriasis, cystic acne, and cold sores. Studies have shown positive effects not only for reducing acne and inflammation but also for smoothing out wrinkles, fading acne scars, and helping with the healing of burns and hypertrophic (raised) scars.

National Library of Medicine Study, Low-Level Light Therapy (LLLT) in Skin: stimulating, healing, restoring

FROM THE AESTHETIC VIEWPOINT

Many wellness platforms like this article from Goop, describe red light therapy as a powerful tool for skin rejuvenation because it supports collagen production— a key protein that our skin loses as we age. This collagen loss contributes to slower healing, sagging, and wrinkles. According to Goop, red light therapy is intended to help improve skin elasticity, smoothness, and overall appearance, offering a way to support natural skin health over time.

From my own experience, using a red light therapy mask helped reduce inflammation during flare-ups of acute cystic acne, which helped physically heal my skin and also improved my mental health because less inflammation means less noticeable acne. The mask I use also includes blue light which has been shown to decrease active acne. I’m excited to see going forward how it might impact my skin’s appearance long-term, especially in terms of softening wrinkles and helping to heal acne scars

These before and after photos from Current Body The Beauty Tech Experts show the results of using red light therapy consistently over the course of a month. They found that in office and at home red light therapy reduced inflammation, itching, and hyperpigmentation that often accompanies eczema.

before and after photos red light therapy for eczema — CurrentBody - Red light effects on eczema

These before and after photos, provided by SolaWare, demonstrate the potential impact of consistent at-home red light therapy on wrinkles after one month of use. The images highlight noticeable improvements in skin texture, with reduced wrinkle depth and a smoother, more youthful appearance. While individual results can vary, these photos showcase how red light therapy may help support skin rejuvenation and improve fine lines over time with consistent use.

before and after red light therapy effects on wrinkles — SolaWave - Red light effects on wrinkles

The following before and after photos, sourced from the American Academy of Dermatology Association (AAD), showcase the potential impact of red light therapy on acne. While many people using at-home red light masks report noticeable improvement, complete clearing is less common— typically, users see a significant reduction but not total elimination of acne. According to the AAD, both red and blue light can be effective in treating acne, though at-home devices may not achieve the same results as treatments from a dermatologist.

before and afters red light therapy effect on acne — AAD - Red light effects on acne

HIGHEST RATED AT HOME RED LIGHT DEVICES

CurrentBody Skin LED Mask - This mask is known for its flexible silicone design, which comfortably wraps around the face, enhancing light penetration for a more even effect. It uses both red and near-infrared light to reduce fine lines, inflammation, and acne with a suggested usage of three to five times weekly.

SolaWave Wand - While smaller devices don't cover as much as masks many users and dermatologists suggest they are effective for localized issues. The SolaWave wand combines red light therapy with micro currents, massage, and warmth to boost circulation which users have reported as helpful for skin texture, blemishes, and tone improvement.

LifePro Red Light Wand - This handheld wand is praised for its portability and targeted use, ideal for precise treatment on smaller areas like blemishes, fine lines, joint pain, and cold sores. It’s compact, easy to use, and a convenient choice for on-the-go treatment or daily maintenance.

Dr. Dennis Gross DrX SpectraLite Faceare Pro - With a mix of red and blue LEDs this device targets acne, redness, and fine lines, said to boost skin texture and tone. Although it's a higher investment, it's FDA-cleared and widely recommended for daily three-minute sessions to see improvements in skin clarity and brightness. Users have reported enhanced skin tone and a reduction in dullness after consistent use

Foreo UFO mini 2 - Compact and easy to use, the Foreo UFO 2 offers red, blue, and green LED light therapy combined with sonic pulsations to improve skin texture and boost product absorption. It only requires 90 seconds per session, making it convenient for regular use.

Hooga HG300 Panel - The Hooga HG300 is a versatile, entry-level device that's compact enough for home use while covering a larger area with both red and near-infrared LEDs. It’s well-regarded for providing effective results, particularly for users new to red light therapy. The device can be wall-mounted or used as a standing panel, which makes it adaptable to different settings and spaces.